We get the same eight questions on the phone every week. Rather than make you call to get an honest answer, here they are up-front — same advice we'd give a friend. If yours isn't here, dial us at the bottom and ask. Real human picks up in ~11 seconds.
What does it cost to clear a kitchen or bathroom drain?
A standard kitchen-sink or single bath-drain clear is $185 flat, parts and labor included. That covers cable-augering up to 75 ft, snake retrieval, and a camera-scope down the line to confirm the cause. Main-line stoppages with hydro-jetting start at $429 because the equipment cost (heavy gas-powered jetter, hose reel, recovery tank) is materially higher. Both come with a 30-day no-clog guarantee on the same line.
Should I repair or replace my water heater?
If your tank is under 8 years old and the problem is a thermocouple, gas valve, anode rod, or T&P valve, repair. Those are $189–$475 parts-and-labor and buy you another 3–5 years. If the tank is 10+ years old and leaking from the tank body (not a fitting), replace — the steel is corroded through and patching is throwing good money after bad. Gray area: 8–10 yr old tank with intermittent ignition. Honest answer: replace if you have a partner or kids who'll hate a no-hot-water morning more than you'd hate the install bill.
Tankless vs tank water heater — which is right for me?
Tank is cheaper upfront ($1,950 vs $4,300 installed for a Rinnai), recovers fast, and is dead-simple to service. Tankless is 25–35% cheaper to operate, lasts 18–22 years vs 10–12 for tank, never runs out, and qualifies for the $600 federal energy credit + the Xcel rebate ($400 typical). If you have a 4+ bedroom home with simultaneous hot-water demand or you plan to be in the house another 8+ years, tankless math wins. Smaller homes / shorter holds: tank stays competitive.
How do I find my main water shutoff?
In Denver-metro homes, look in these three places: (1) basement utility room, on the supply line right after the meter, valve handle perpendicular to the pipe means open; (2) crawl-space entry, often within 5 ft of where the line enters the house; (3) front-yard meter pit at the curb — a 5/8 in pentagonal nut, you need a curb-key (we'll bring one if you don't have it). Snap a photo of yours TODAY so you're not hunting for it at 2am with water spraying.
Why is my water bill suddenly high — and is it me?
Three usual culprits: (1) silently-running toilet flapper — single biggest leak source, can waste 200 gal/day; drop a few drops of food coloring in the tank, wait 15 min, if it shows in the bowl the flapper is leaking; (2) outdoor irrigation valve stuck open or a buried-line crack — your bill spike will correlate with the season; (3) slab leak — rare but real, hot spot on the floor or sudden mildew smell. The Denver Water bill itself almost never has an error. Call us for $249 flat leak detection if a flapper check doesn't catch it.
Do I need a permit to replace a faucet, toilet, or garbage disposal?
No — like-for-like fixture replacement (faucet, toilet, disposal) doesn't require a permit in Denver, Aurora, Lakewood, Centennial, or Westminster. Permits ARE required for: water-heater swaps over 75K BTU (most tankless), any gas-line work, fixture rough-in for new construction, sewer-line repair in the public right-of-way, and re-pipes. We pull every permit ourselves at $85–$135 flat depending on jurisdiction.
Do you really have someone on call at 2am with no surcharge?
Yes. Two trucks staffed 24/7 metro-wide, including weekends and holidays. Same flat-rate price book applies — the $185 drain clear at 2pm is $185 at 2am. Most Denver competitors charge a 1.5×–2× after-hours premium; we don't, on principle. We staff overnight because plumbing emergencies don't check the clock; charging double for the same work feels wrong.
What does your 2-year warranty actually cover?
All workmanship on the work we performed, for 24 months from service date. If the same fix fails on the same line within that window, we come back and re-do it at no cost — no service-call fee, no parts charge. Manufacturer warranties (typically 6 yrs on tank water heaters, 12–15 yrs on tankless, 5 yrs on premium faucets) apply on top. What's NOT covered: damage caused by separate failures (e.g., we fixed your kitchen drain, your bathroom drain fails six months later — that's a new job), and acts of god (frozen pipes after we left, pre-existing issues we didn't touch).
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Still have a question?
A real human picks up in ~11 seconds — Denver-based, never an answering service. Triage the issue, dispatch the truck, quote at the door.
